1932 Ford Clarke Hot Rods | a hot rod & custom shop
Clarke Hot Rods

People are constantly asking us to buy the crossmembers outright – here they are.

Get them while they are hot.

$400.00 + $79 flat rate freight in the lower 48 states.

Call us anytime:

Or email us: sales@clarkehotrods.com

We have been tapped by Dale’s Auto Restoration to build them a ’32 perimeter, 107′ wheelbase, Highboy frame, Model A front, and a crossleaf rear. Solid bones for a fresh 5w.

The rails are going in the jig this week, should be an awesome project!

The Baer Chassis – all done and ready to start fitting the body & sheetmetal.


New pictures – it is rolling around!


It seems like lately the hot rod hobby is being inundated with all these “period correct” rules and regulations, and our shop is no different. We get so caught up in building cars that represent and “era” or even a specific year “1948”, that we lose sight of what is really important: build a hot rod that is fast, basic, dependable, and drivable. We used to have a saying around here that we build cars you drive 80 in the left lane….and this is one of those cars.

We were asked to build this chassis for Bobby Lynch with a pretty simple request and a long leash – Bobby wanted a nice tight car, with a killer stance, big ‘n littles, stick axles front and rear, chrome and polish everything, a big-inch flatmotor, and 3 pedals. Here is the start of that – our standard 106″ chassis, chrome I-beam, chrome ‘pins, 9″ on four bars….more to follow….

We have done a few projects for Shawn Baer over the years – you have all seen the sanitary little ’31 on deuce rails from a few years back – well Baer is back to the table for another project. This time is is a flathead Ford powered ’32 5w, 3speed, closed drive, ’40 rear, unsplit bone, ’40 brakes, etc. We are doing some out of the box things to dress the frame up a bit – We aren’t boxing the frame, only small sections near the center crossmember to tighten those areas up a bit, and will follow up with some rivets for good measure. We’ve pancaked a ’37 rear crossmember since this car will not be running a Quick-change, and a few more trick touches down the road – stay tuned….


I was just sitting here on Christmas Eve clearing out some old pics and videos – and ran across this one of Chip moving his roadster from one side of the shop to the other. We were just standing there in the shop last June, and he needed to make some room – I just barely got my camera out and on in time to catch the moment –

chassis-shot-2-dsrIn the last few years, the guys up at the Rolling Bones shop in New York have taken an old idea and worked it back into style. The ‘Bones guys took the Doane Spencer ’32 front suspension setup, and put their own spin on it, and have put some really great looking hot rods on the street in the last few years. The basic idea that Spencer had was to place the spring behind the axle, and mount the spring perches to the wishbones. This lowers the front of the car dramatically, without dropping the axle. The axle is pushed forward just slightly, lengthening the wheelbase, but keeping the axle behind the chin of the grille shell. The front frame horns are pinched  about 10″ from the cowl, allowing the frame rails to follow the bottom of the hood sides, and disappearing into the grille shell at the front.

Here are some early shots of the Hilderbrand’s frame going together in our shop, still using our basic crossmember setup -

Yesterday at the shop we reversed the main leaf for the front of Joe Malki’s ForDor – this is pretty simple tech, and is the fastest, cheapest way to get a couple inches of lower on your Early Ford.

Step one is to obviously dis-assemble the spring back, clamp it, take hte bolt out, and slowing back the clamp off. Next we like to lay the spring on the floor, and draw the arc of the spring out with some chalk. Next, mark the spring in 1 1/2″ increments from one end to the other, and the top of the leaf. I fogot to snap a picture of this, but basically starting from the hole in the center, make a mark ever 1 1/2″ down the spring until you get about 2″ from the rolled portion at the end.

From here we go to the press, and place to blocks 5″ apart, and press each mark that we made on the spring 5 times each. We bring the press down until it makes contact on the leaf, then give it five hits with the press, and move to the next mark. Continue back and forth along the lenght of the spring until it is prefectly straight. This may take a few passes. Don’t get impatient and try to do 6-7 hits per mark, as you may kink the leaf, by trying to bend too much at a time in one location.

Once you get it straight, continue the process in the same direction, until you have the correct arch going in the opposite direction. Re-assemble the spring and enjoy your new ride height!