1932 Frame, Pinched for Model A Bodies We have been building frames pinched in the front and rear for Model A bodies for years, including the popular Baer Roadster that has become one of our more popular cars to come out of our shop. That car rolled out the door in 2007, and we still get inquires about the frame and chassis under that car. Below are a few additional photos of a recent frame leaving the shop, pinched both at the cowl, and the rear frame hors for a ’28-29 body. We only pinch the rear frame horns for a ’30-31 body. As you may not know, we slice up the stock stamped rails, and recreate them as if they were stamped originally with the “pinched” dimensions. No hard steps in the rails, and no funky/wavy sections where the rails look bent. View down the Rail from Front Rear Pinch Rear pinch from Top Side by Side with Stock Rail Side by Side with Stock Rail Side by Side with Stock Rail Add a Comment
We have been building frames pinched in the front and rear for Model A bodies for years, including the popular Baer Roadster that has become one of our more popular cars to come out of our shop. That car rolled out the door in 2007, and we still get inquires about the frame and chassis under that car.
Below are a few additional photos of a recent frame leaving the shop, pinched both at the cowl, and the rear frame hors for a ’28-29 body. We only pinch the rear frame horns for a ’30-31 body.
As you may not know, we slice up the stock stamped rails, and recreate them as if they were stamped originally with the “pinched” dimensions. No hard steps in the rails, and no funky/wavy sections where the rails look bent.
1932 Ford Clutch Pedal Assembly When it comes to clutch linkage, the most reliable setup is still full mechanical linkage. We have had a few people inquire about how we build our clutch linkage recently, so here a few pics of a chassis in the shop with the complete linkage. These photos do not show the completed jackshaft, as it will have some gusseting on the levers when complete. Add a Comment
When it comes to clutch linkage, the most reliable setup is still full mechanical linkage. We have had a few people inquire about how we build our clutch linkage recently, so here a few pics of a chassis in the shop with the complete linkage. These photos do not show the completed jackshaft, as it will have some gusseting on the levers when complete.
A Doane Spencer Style ’32 Chassis for Barry Hilderbrand In the last few years, the guys up at the Rolling Bones shop in New York have taken an old idea and worked it back into style. The ‘Bones guys took the Doane Spencer ’32 front suspension setup, and put their own spin on it, and have put some really great looking hot rods on the street in the last few years. The basic idea that Spencer had was to place the spring behind the axle, and mount the spring perches to the wishbones. This lowers the front of the car dramatically, without dropping the axle. The axle is pushed forward just slightly, lengthening the wheelbase, but keeping the axle behind the chin of the grille shell. The front frame horns are pinched about 10″ from the cowl, allowing the frame rails to follow the bottom of the hood sides, and disappearing into the grille shell at the front. Here are some early shots of the Hilderbrand’s frame going together in our shop, still using our basic crossmember setup – At this point, just another basic ’32 frame Our Standard X-member Foundation The frame is pinched where it would come from underneat the hood side Flanges of Rails notched for the Pinch Pinched, with front Cross Member Trimmed to Fit Pinched – Fitting Front Crossmember Rear of Front Crossmember Notched to Achieve Correct Caster Top View of Pinch Area Frame Horns Now removed Finished front crossmember Front detail Pinch Detail Add a Comment
In the last few years, the guys up at the Rolling Bones shop in New York have taken an old idea and worked it back into style. The ‘Bones guys took the Doane Spencer ’32 front suspension setup, and put their own spin on it, and have put some really great looking hot rods on the street in the last few years. The basic idea that Spencer had was to place the spring behind the axle, and mount the spring perches to the wishbones. This lowers the front of the car dramatically, without dropping the axle. The axle is pushed forward just slightly, lengthening the wheelbase, but keeping the axle behind the chin of the grille shell. The front frame horns are pinched about 10″ from the cowl, allowing the frame rails to follow the bottom of the hood sides, and disappearing into the grille shell at the front.
Here are some early shots of the Hilderbrand’s frame going together in our shop, still using our basic crossmember setup –
How-To: 1932 Ford Front Mainleaf Reversing Yesterday at the shop we reversed the main leaf for the front of Joe Malki’s ForDor – this is pretty simple tech, and is the fastest, cheapest way to get a couple inches of lower on your Early Ford. Step one is to obviously dis-assemble the spring back, clamp it, take hte bolt out, and slowing back the clamp off. Next we like to lay the spring on the floor, and draw the arc of the spring out with some chalk. Next, mark the spring in 1 1/2″ increments from one end to the other, and the top of the leaf. I fogot to snap a picture of this, but basically starting from the hole in the center, make a mark ever 1 1/2″ down the spring until you get about 2″ from the rolled portion at the end. From here we go to the press, and place to blocks 5″ apart, and press each mark that we made on the spring 5 times each. We bring the press down until it makes contact on the leaf, then give it five hits with the press, and move to the next mark. Continue back and forth along the lenght of the spring until it is prefectly straight. This may take a few passes. Don’t get impatient and try to do 6-7 hits per mark, as you may kink the leaf, by trying to bend too much at a time in one location. Once you get it straight, continue the process in the same direction, until you have the correct arch going in the opposite direction. Re-assemble the spring and enjoy your new ride height! Add a Comment
Yesterday at the shop we reversed the main leaf for the front of Joe Malki’s ForDor – this is pretty simple tech, and is the fastest, cheapest way to get a couple inches of lower on your Early Ford.
Step one is to obviously dis-assemble the spring back, clamp it, take hte bolt out, and slowing back the clamp off. Next we like to lay the spring on the floor, and draw the arc of the spring out with some chalk. Next, mark the spring in 1 1/2″ increments from one end to the other, and the top of the leaf. I fogot to snap a picture of this, but basically starting from the hole in the center, make a mark ever 1 1/2″ down the spring until you get about 2″ from the rolled portion at the end.
From here we go to the press, and place to blocks 5″ apart, and press each mark that we made on the spring 5 times each. We bring the press down until it makes contact on the leaf, then give it five hits with the press, and move to the next mark. Continue back and forth along the lenght of the spring until it is prefectly straight. This may take a few passes. Don’t get impatient and try to do 6-7 hits per mark, as you may kink the leaf, by trying to bend too much at a time in one location.
Once you get it straight, continue the process in the same direction, until you have the correct arch going in the opposite direction. Re-assemble the spring and enjoy your new ride height!
